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5.5 - SLIT - Hems: sewing a "mitered" corner

  • Still on the reverse side of your skirt, make a first 1 cm fill towards the inside of the skirt at the bottom in order to pre-mark the hem
  • Iron to mark the fold
  • Make a second 6 cm filling towards the inside, and iron again

13. Filled to mark the hems of the bottom of the slit disclothed paris skirt

We're going to sew together what is called in sewing, a "mitered corner." This finish is often used for household linens (curtains, tablecloths, etc.), but also on trench coats or, as in our case, on slit skirts.
 
 
  • To sew the corner, unfold the flaps of the slit to open it.
  • Fold the bias section of the bottom of the skirt in half, right sides together, and pin edge to edge. Be sure to keep the small 1 cm margin folded down on each side when pinning.

Angle hem skirt slit corner mitered disclothed paris couture

  • Stitch along this line with a straight stitch at 1 cm, starting and ending with a backstitch as usual

16. Photo folding angles hems and slit 5 cut excess threads skirt slit disclothed paris

  • Finally, turn your angle over and iron to form a nice right angle.
  • Do the same with the second angle

Congratulations, you have successfully sewn a mitered corner!

Disclothed Paris Couture Sewing Pattern Mitered Slit Corner Skirt

We will now finish the hem using a ribbed topstitch all along the hem and our slit.

💡 Good to know: depending on the fabric chosen, you also have the option of finishing with an invisible stitch, but we will not cover this method here, because the technical fabric we have chosen for this model is, in our opinion, more suited to a ribbed topstitch finish than to an invisible stitch finish.

 

18. Topstitching around the skirt slit disclothed paris

 

❓ What is a pintuck? It is a decorative stitch, also called a "hair stitch" (but it's rare, honestly), which is sewn 1 or 2 millimeters from the edge of a fabric (or a fold). Beyond its purely decorative function, the pintuck can be used to reinforce a seam, flatten an area, or even hold a hem as in our case.

❓ How to make a rib stitch? We simply sew with a straight stitch, all along our fold, 1 or 2 millimeters apart. So there is nothing very complicated, the only difficulty with the rib stitch is to make it as evenly as possible in order to have a clean result (perfectly parallel to the fold / the reference seam).

  • Ribbed topstitching: start on one side from the top of the slit (be precise so as not to take unwanted thicknesses of fabric), go all the way around and finish on the other side at the top of the slit again. As usual, don't forget the backstitch at the beginning and end.

19. Topstitching slit be precise skirt slit disclothed paris

➡️ If you're not confident enough to start like this, we recommend pinning everything to ensure it stays flat. For those who are more adept at using a sewing machine, feel free to start without pinning; our technical fabric is surprisingly well-suited to this task.

❓ How to topstitch corners? It's very simple: just like a regular corner, straight stitch all the way to the corner. Feel free to play with the dial to reach the exact point you want to stop at. Leave the needle in the fabric at that point, raise the presser foot, rotate the fabric 90°, and lower the presser foot to continue.

⚠️ We pay close attention to our seam allowances when we topstitch: the side seam allowances are lying down towards the back