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1.4 - BIEBER - Collar Installation

We will now assemble our 2 pieces of Collar to our Front and our Back, by superimposing.

  • Place the right side of your Front, Back, Front Collar and Back Collar facing you
  • Place your Front Collar on top of your Front, and your Back Collar on top of your Back, making sure to align the bottom edge of your Collar with the line you just made with chalk. Pin all the way down.

ASSEMBLY Collar overlap fabrics follow the pink line

⚠️  We don't assemble "right sides together" as you might be used to. Here, you have the right sides facing you (so we make a "right sides together" since we're overlapping our pieces).

➡️ Don't hesitate to use a lot of pins. Use more than usual to keep the two layers of fabric together along our lines.

 

pinning the collar use plenty of sewing pins to hold the two layers of fabric together
  • Stitch 1.5 cm from the edge of your collar. To do this, first draw this line on your collar: the left needle of our double needle will follow this line.

💡 Good to know: the twin needle is perfect for sewing jersey. Indeed, on the reverse side, the threads from the two spools will "zigzag" all the way between the two stitches visible on the right side. These zigzags will allow our jersey to remain stretchy, and the seams will not risk breaking (this is what happens if you decide to sew stretchy fabrics with a straight stitch using a single needle).

  

Double needle jersey overlay trace with chalk 1.5cm

 

⚠️ We can't tell you this enough: first test on a scrap before starting your project! In sewing, we always test our stitch on a scrap to find the best settings (stitch length and thread tension) according to the nature and thickness of our fabric. We also adjust our settings throughout the sewing process according to the number of layers to be stitched. We know that many people skip this step, out of laziness or haste, but when working with a double needle, we can't afford to miss it. The double needle is not rocket science to master, but the settings are not always easy to find at the beginning, it's not like the straight stitch with a single needle which will generally always give you a straight stitch, more or less pretty. With the double needle, you can have knots forming on the wrong side if your settings are not done correctly, so it's immediately less fun :)

 

double needle test sewing disclothed paris sewing pattern sewing beginner

  • Stitch normally all the way along, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual. Our twin needle is 4 mm wide, so you get two even topstitchings spaced 4 mm apart.

➡️ The left needle of our double needle will therefore come to stitch right on the edge of our bottom thickness (our Front or our Back), hence the importance of being precise when you stitch so as not to leave a hole.

➡️ Some people prefer not to draw lines but simply feel with their fingers where the edge of the fabric underneath is when stitching. You can practice on scraps beforehand to see which method works best for you before you start.

double needle stitch 1.5cm from the raw edge following the chalk line - regular topstitching 4mm

    Positioning the double needle 1.5 cm from the edge:

    double needle position t-shirt bieber couture kit disclothed paris

    Here's what you get:

    assembly of front and back collars by superimposing fabrics - raw edges with double needle