disclothed paris contact kits couture et patrons

5.8 - SLIT - Cargo version: sewing patch pockets

Pockets Skirt Slit disclothed paris sewing pattern kit-1

For those who opted for the cargo version, here is how to make the patch pockets that we designed for our < slit > skirt:

  • First, make the folds of the pocket: on the right side, we use the notches that we made at the beginning and we fold according to the diagram below:

28. Sew a patch pocket folds according to notches disclothed paris

  • Next, fold along the black dotted lines on our diagram, but this time backward. In practice, when you fold along both the pink dotted lines and the black dotted lines, the black dotted lines end up in the center of your rectangle:

 

29 - 30 - Sew a patch pocket folding diagram using the notches to fold disclothed paris

  • Topstitch along the pleats (without going through the back thickness):

31. Sew a patch pocket folding diagram using the notches to fold disclothed paris topstitch pleats

  • Make 2 support stitches to hold the pocket flaps in place. These two stitches will not be visible at the end because they are made with the ribbing: as close to the edge as possible.

32. Make a pocket support stitch on a slit skirt in disclothed Paris

  • Do the same with your second pocket.
  • Overlock the top of your "Pocket Hems"

33. Overlock the inside pocket flap piece

  • Assemble the Pocket Hems to the Pockets as shown in the diagram below: place right sides together, and stitch 1 cm from the edge

34. Assemble flap and pocket stitch at 1cm disclothed paris slit skirt

 

  • Trim the top corners of your pockets

💡 Why trim corners? Trimming your corners is essential. Trimming a corner simply means "removing material" from the corner. Trimming your corner will help you turn your work properly. Without trimming, the excess material trapped inside would prevent you from achieving a clean, flat corner. 

❓ How to trim a corner? Nothing could be simpler! We remove material by cutting diagonally in our fabric, as close as possible to our stitching (1 or 2 mm). Be careful not to cut too close to the stitching either, you risk making a hole.

 

35. Notched pocket trim disclothed paris slit skirt

  • Turn the hem over to the other side and flatten the corners with an iron.

The seam allowances on the sides of the pocket therefore naturally fold down to the front, and we get this:

36. Return hem cleanliness pocket disclothed paris skirt slit

  • Finally, fold down the seam allowance at the bottom of the pocket as shown below.
  • Iron to mark the fold

37.1 fold down bottom seam allowance slit disclothed paris skirt

37.1 fold down bottom seam allowance slit disclothed paris skirt

  • Topstitch the top of the pocket with a straight stitch, ribbing
  • Make a second rib stitch just below: these are purely decorative stitches

38. topstitch topstitch the top of the pocket twice disclothed paris slit skirt

  • Pin the 2 pocket flaps (5/6) together, right sides together, and sew 1 cm apart with a straight stitch following the dotted lines indicated below:

39. Disclothed Paris pocket flap slit skirt

  • Trim your corners

40. strip pocket flap sewing scissors disclothed paris skirt slit

  • Turn your pocket flap right side out and flatten with an iron
  • Overlock the top of the pocket flap using a zigzag stitch
  • Make 2 decorative topstitching, ribbing, as drawn in the diagram below
  • Proceed in the same way for your second Pocket Flap

41. turn pocket flap inside out and overlock topstitch decorative topstitch flatten