disclothed paris contact kits couture et patrons

5.3 - SLIT - Sewing the slit

  • Place yourself on the reverse of your 2 half-backs
  • Straight Half Back: At the slit, fold the 1 cm seam allowance inwards. Iron (again ⚠️ ) to mark the fold
  • Fold again by 6 cm: we use the notch to help fold straight. On the top, we therefore have a filled with 1 cm (our seam allowance)
  • Iron

 

Sewing Pleat Slit Half Back Straight Fold Iron Mark Skirt Slit Disclothed Paris

  

  • Left Half Back: also fold 1 cm inwards
  • Iron to mark the fold
  • Fold inwards again by 6 cm: again, use the notch to help fold

 

Half back left seam learn to sew a slit easily fold 1cm filled 6cm iron mark the fold

  • We then come to superimpose our Left Half-Back (2/6) on our Right Half-Back (3/6), aligning the line that we have drawn in pink on the diagram below, and maintaining the folds that we have just marked with the iron:

assembly half back seam slit overlay fabric seam allowance according to line disclothed paris

  • We will stitch along the pink dotted lines drawn below: start by pinning all along to hold the 2 Half-Backs together

Stitch slit in the middle of the back and sew with a straight stitch

➡️ Be careful, we don't want to immediately press the slit onto the Right Half-Back (3/6) - the diagram can be confusing. We just want to join the 2 Half-Backs at the slit. We therefore advise you, after pinning, to "fold" your Right Half-Back (3/6) over your Left Half-Back (2/6), right sides together. You get this (piece 3/6 is behind piece 2/6) and you can therefore serenely stitch only these 2 layers together:

 

center back slit stitch and unhooked sew with straight stitch disclothed paris ready-to-sew kit easy sewing pattern

 

  • Sew with a straight stitch 1 cm from the edge, remembering, as usual, to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
  • Cut off any excess threads

How to sew a corner? It's very simple: straight stitch all the way to the corner, 1 cm from the edge of the fabric (the value of our seam allowances). Leave the needle in the fabric at this point, raise the presser foot, pivot the fabric and lower the presser foot to continue.

  • Overcasting the slit: Position yourself on the zigzag stitch of your machine
  • Test your stitch length and thread tension on a piece of fabric and overcast both layers of fabric at the same time.

➡️ Here we use a zigzag stitch that can be made with a family sewing machine, but for those who have an overlocker, don't hesitate to overlock your pieces instead, the result will be even cleaner.

6. Overcast center back and unhooked slit seam zigzag stitch or overlocker

 

💡 Good to know: if you are working with a fabric thicker than ours, we recommend notching at the corner to open your seam allowance and overcasting each thickness separately:

 

7. Overcast center back and unhooked slit seam zigzag stitch or overlocker thick fabric

We will now place the top of our lunge on the Right Half Back:

  • Pin the top of your slit to your right half back: make sure everything is flat

8. Flatten and sew the top of the slit with a straight stitch

  • Topstitch 1 cm from the edge, remembering, as usual, to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching. In practice, we are going back over the stitching we made earlier.

Congratulations, you've successfully sewn and assembled a slit! You now have a complete Back, which we'll now assemble to the Front.