Now we’ll attach the sleeves to the bodice, making sure to match right and left sleeves correctly. Here’s how to avoid confusion :
- Place your < hanbok > shirt inside out, and keep both sleeves right side out
- Find the small notches you made earlier: the single notch on the sleeve should match the shoulder seam, and the double notch on the sleeve should match the double notch on the front
➡️ When starting this step, it can be tricky to visualize how everything fits together. Take your time to identify the Right Front, Left Front, Right Sleeve, and Left Sleeve. Use the notches as guides, and check which pieces are right side out or wrong side out. Refer to the diagrams and tutorial video for extra help 💖
➡️ If you find that the sleeve cap seems too large for the armhole, don’t worry—this is called “ease.”
❓ What is ease ? Ease is a little extra fabric built into a pattern to make certain areas more comfortable or to add shape, like a slight puff at the sleeve cap. At the armhole, a bit of ease is normal and ensures you can move comfortably in your blouse. On the < hanbok > shirt, the armholes are wide and there’s very little ease, so it’s easy to manage
- Once you’ve matched the notches and managed the ease, pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides together, making sure
- The double notches on the front match the double notches on the sleeve
- The sleeve seam matches the side seam (under the arm)
- The sleeve head notch matches the shoulder seam
⚠️ When pinning, make sure all seam allowances are pressed toward the back : sleeve seams, side seams, and shoulder seams
💡 Tip : If you’re a beginner, use plenty of pins to help keep everything aligned.
- Sew the sleeve to the armhole with a straight stitch, 1 cm from the edge. Start at the side seam (under the arm) and sew all the way around. Backstitch at the beginning and end, and trim any excess threads
💡 Good to know : Starting and ending your stitching at the underarm helps reinforce this area, which is prone to wear
💡 Sewing machine tip : Remove the accessory compartment from your sewing machine to make it easier to sew around the armhole and avoid pulling on the fabric
- Raw edge version : Overlock both armhole seams with a zigzag stitch or a serger, sewing through both layers together. Even out the edges with scissors if needed before overlocking
- Press the seam allowances of the armholes toward the bodice
