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1.7 - BIEBER - Assembly of Sleeves and Ribs

We're going to stitch our sleeves and sides of our < bieber > t-shirt in one go. We're still following the same process for this step, and once again it's the back that will be positioned on the front.

➡️ For those who have opted for the maxi dress version, we explain below how to sew your slits

  • Use your chalk outline to overlap your Back onto your Front and pin all along the sleeves and sides.

assemble the back to the front chalk line double needle sewing
  • Stitch all the way with a double needle, 1.5 cm from the edge. Take care to leave a 1.5 cm space at the beginning and end of your stitching, and don't forget to make your backstitching, as usual.
  • Then make a support stitch as we did previously at the level of the collar

💡 Good to know: this stitching allows us to reinforce the seam under the armpit and keep our seam allowance flat so that it does not get damaged over time

Armhole and armpit support stitching

For the maxi dress version, it's almost the same thing except that we stop not 1.5 cm from the bottom of the dress, but at the mark that you marked with chalk at the beginning:

  • First try on your maxi dress and check that the mark indicating the top of the slit is at a height that suits you.
  • Carefully pin all the way down and stitch with a double needle at 1.5 cm, starting at the desired slit height and finishing 1.5 cm before the end of the sleeve. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual.

Maxi dress slit with side stitching stopping at the notch
  • Also make the support stitch under the armpit as for the t-shirt / crop top / mini dress versions (explained just above for those who have skipped the step)
  • Then stitch perpendicular to the side stitching, making your backstitching stitches again at the beginning and end. We start exactly where our previous stitching began and we make a few stitches until we reach the Front (just 1 stitch on the Front is enough) in order to keep the Back firmly pressed against the Front.

high slit stitch maxi dress perpendicular stitching on the front

To finish our slit nicely, we suggest you make a decorative stitch all along, on the front only.

  • Lift your Back and position your double needle at the very top, right under the slit holding stitch that you just made: be careful not to catch your Back in the seam when stitching
  • Don't forget your stopping stitches as usual, at the beginning and at the end, and don't forget to also stop your stitching 1.5 cm before the bottom of the dress

decorative topstitching maxi dress slit step 3 double needle stitching

💡  Good to know: the side of our Back Slit remains unstitched: the jersey we provide in our kits lends itself well to this because it does not fray at all. If you have opted for our pattern sold separately and the fabric you have chosen frays, you will need to stitch this area as well to prevent fraying.