gamme de montage couture t-shirt bieber

Assembly range

BIEBER

Learn to sew the < bieber > pattern with us. You will be guided step by step through every stage of the process — there’s no way you can go wrong !

STREETWEAR VIBES

BIEBER T-SHIRT

Available as a crop top, t-shirt, mini dress, or maxi dress with slits, our unisex < bieber > t-shirt is perfect for both beginner and experienced sewists seeking streetwear inspiration

vidéo tuto t-shirt bieber coudre t-shirt oversize vidéo tuto t-shirt bieber coudre t-shirt oversize
gamme de montage t-shirt bieber coudre t-shirt oversize
VERSIONS

This assembly guide shows you how to sew your < bieber > t-shirt, no matter which version you choose :

  • crop top (men’s or women’s patterns)
  • t-shirt (men’s or women’s patterns)
  • mini dress (women’s pattern) – mid-thigh length
  • maxi dress (women’s pattern) – mid-calf/ankle length, with two maxi side slits for a feminine touch

You’ll be guided step by step through each stage of construction, making it easy to create your preferred version—whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist looking for streetwear inspiration.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL

The < bieber > t-shirt is a quick and fun project thanks to its unique construction.

It’s accessible to beginner sewists — the only real challenge you may encounter is adjusting your machine settings to achieve a neat finish with a twin needle. Twin needles are known to be a bit tricky, but once you find the right settings, it becomes very easy

COMPLETION TIME

2 hours are enough to make the crop top or t-shirt versions of this pattern. You may need about 3 hours for the mini and maxi dress versions.

SEAM ALLOWANCES

Seam allowances are always included and visible on our sewing patterns. They are 1.5 cm here

REQUIRED MATERIALS

Included in the sewing kit :

  • The < bieber > women's t-shirt sewing pattern, printed in large format and ready to use : no need to trace the pieces. The pattern pieces do not overlap, and seam allowances are included. The pattern includes all versions (crop top, t-shirt, mini dress and maxi dress with slits)
  • The selected fabric — sourced from the dormant stock of a major French luxury house (see details in the “Composition & Care” section below)
  • 2 spools of polyester thread (100m each) from Gütermann, in a color matching the selected fabric
  • A twin needle - 4 mm wide, from Bohin
  • A < disclothed > paris label to sew in, woven in the south of France
  • A technical sheet including the cutting plan and QR codes redirecting you to the digital assembly guide and the complete video tutorial

Not included in the kit :

FABRIC CONSUMPTION - WOMEN
Please note, always allow 5-10% more than what we indicate in this table - depending on your fabric's ability to shrink.
 
Short sleeve version:
Width 140 cm Crop top T-shirt Mini dress Maxi dress
Size 34 0.80 m 1.10 m 1.15 m 1.70 m
Size 36 0.80 m 1.10 m 1.15 m 1.70 m
Size 38 0.80 m 1.10 m 1.15 m 1.70 m
Size 40 0.80 m 1.10 m 1.15 m 1.70 m
Size 42 1.10 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Size 44 1.10 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Size 46 1.20 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Size 48 1.20 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Long sleeve version:
Width 140 cm Crop top T-shirt Mini dress Maxi dress
Size 34 1.10 m 1.40 m 1.50 m 2 m
Size 36 1.10 m 1, 40 m 1.50 m 2 m
Size 38 1.10 m 1, 40 m 1.50 m 2 m
Size 40 1.10 m 1, 40 m 1.50 m 2 m
Size 42 1.30 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Size 44 1.30 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Size 46 1.30 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
Size 48 1.30 m 1.70 m 2 m 3 m
FABRIC CONSUMPTION - MEN
Please note, always allow 5-10% more than what we indicate in this table - depending on your fabric's ability to shrink.
 
Short sleeve version:
 
Width 140 cm Crop top version T-shirt version
Size XS 1.10 m 1.60 m
Size S 1.10 m 1.60 m
Size M 1.10 m 1.60 m
Size L 1.10 m 1.60 m
Size XL 1.20 m 1.60 m

Long sleeve version:
 
Width 140 cm Crop top version T-shirt version
Size XS 1.50 m 1.60 m
Size S 1.50 m 1.60 m
Size M 1.50 m 1.60 m
Size L 1.50 m 1.60 m
Size XL 1.50 m 1.60 m

ASSEMBLY RANGE

INSTRUCTIONS

Prefer reading ? Find all the illustrated instructions for sewing the < bieber > design in the assembly guide below

1. Getting Started

Unpack your ready-to-sew kit and thread your machine with the Gütermann spools provided :

  • First, fill your empty bobbin with one of the two spools
  • Install the Bohin twin needle (also included)
  • Thread your machine, making sure both threads from the two spools pass through all the designated guides

💡 Threading your machine for a twin needle is exactly the same as for a single needle: after placing both Gütermann spools on your machine, thread both threads together as you normally would with a single thread. Only at the very end do the two threads separate — one goes through the left eye of the needle, the other through the right.

⚠️ Be sure to select the straight stitch on your sewing machine, not the zigzag stitch (otherwise your needle could hit the needle plate). Likewise, keep the needle in the central straight stitch position, not shifted to the left or right.

2. Cutting out the pattern and fabric
  • Cut out each piece of the pattern using your paper scissors, after having chosen the right length on your pattern (crop top, t-shirt, mini dress or maxi dress with slits)
  • Place the right side of the fabric facing you and pin each of the pattern pieces to your fabric, as detailed in the cutting plan included with your pattern. Be careful to respect the grain direction and to cut the pieces "on the fold". Also cut the sleeve once in one direction, and once in the other, in order to obtain a Right Sleeve and a Left Sleeve
  • Cut out each piece of fabric using your fabric scissors this time, taking care to follow the pattern lines perfectly. Remember that seam allowances are always included and visible in < disclothed > paris patterns, so there is no need to leave a margin around the pattern outline.

⚠️ Caution: do not notch any pieces! As we work our jersey with raw edges, you must not make any cuts in the fabric, otherwise it would be visible at the end. In any case, you see that there are no notches on your pattern. For the Women's model, there is only one mark that you can use to determine the height of your side slits for the maxi dress: if you have opted for this version, do not notch but simply mark with chalk

💡 Tip : To differentiate the left sleeve from the right sleeve once cut, we recommend placing a small clip on the "Front" side of both sleeves. We place the colored side of the clip on the right side of our fabric, and the transparent side on the wrong side. This will help us find our way around later:

Sew Bieber Disclothed Paris T-shirt Sleeves: Recognize the Right Sleeve and the Left Sleeve
3. Preparation of the different pieces

To twist the basic streetwear t-shirt whose cut in itself remains rather classic, we decided to put the emphasis on the finishes : forget the classic "right sides together" assembly, the < bieber > t-shirt is assembled by superimposing fabric and assembled with a double needle. The idea was also for us to bring to life our incredible jerseys which come from a large French luxury house (they are ultra thick and 100% wool, perfect for mid-season) by letting them fully showcase their unique character with a raw edge finish.

  

Bieber maxi dress kit and sewing patterns disclothed paris sewing

 

  • Get your tailor's chalk or chalk pencil ready
  • On the right side of your fabric, mark lines 1.5 cm from the edge on your different pieces, as shown in the diagram below. These chalk markings will help you determine which piece goes on top of which other piece, and where exactly :

 

 

Marking seams with tailor's chalk on pieces of fabric

 

 

  • For those who have opted for the maxi dress version, mark the sides of your dress on the front at 1.5 cm as well, but stop at the marks indicating the start of the side slits.

⚠️ Please note : our slits are intentionally very long ! For those who are more sensitive to the cold, you can make them shorter by extending your chalk lines further down. We recommend trying on your < bieber > dress before sewing the sides to make sure they're the right length for you.

 

 

maxi dress couture dress slits chalk marking

 

 

4. Attaching the collar

We will now assemble our 2 pieces of Collar to our Front and our Back, by superimposing.

  • Place the right side of your Front, Back, Front Collar and Back Collar facing you
  • Place your Front Collar on top of your Front, and your Back Collar on top of your Back, making sure to align the bottom edge of your Collar with the line you just made with chalk. Pin all the way down.

 

ASSEMBLY Collar overlap fabrics follow the pink line

 

⚠️  Unlike traditional methods, we do not sew the collar with right sides together. Instead, keep the right sides facing up and overlap the pieces as shown (so we do "right side" against "wrong side" here)

➡️ Don't hesitate to use a lot of pins. Use more than usual to keep the two layers of fabric together along our lines.

 

pinning the collar use plenty of sewing pins to hold the two layers of fabric together

 

  • Stitch 1.5 cm from the edge of your collar. To do this, first draw this guideline on your collar ; the left needle of your twin needle will follow this line as you sew

💡 Good to know : the twin needle is perfect for sewing jersey. Indeed, on the reverse side, the threads from the two spools will "zigzag" all the way between the two stitches visible on the right side. These zigzags will allow our jersey to remain stretchy, and the seams will not risk breaking (this is what happens if you decide to sew stretchy fabrics with a straight stitch using a single needle).

  

Double needle jersey overlay trace with chalk 1.5cm

 

⚠️ We can't tell you this enough: first test on a scrap before starting your project! In sewing, we always test our stitch on a scrap to find the best settings (stitch length and thread tension) according to the nature and thickness of our fabric. We also adjust our settings throughout the sewing process according to the number of layers to be stitched. We know that many people skip this step, out of laziness or haste, but when working with a double needle, we can't afford to miss it. The double needle is not rocket science to master, but the settings are not always easy to find at the beginning, it's not like the straight stitch with a single needle which will generally always give you a straight stitch, more or less pretty. With the double needle, you can have knots forming on the wrong side if your settings are not done correctly, so it's immediately less fun :)

 

double needle test sewing disclothed paris sewing pattern sewing beginner

 

  • Stitch normally all the way along, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual. Our twin needle is 4 mm wide, so you get two even topstitchings spaced 4 mm apart.

➡️ The left needle of our double needle will therefore come to stitch right on the edge of our bottom thickness (our Front or our Back), hence the importance of being precise when you stitch so as not to leave a hole.

➡️ Some people prefer not to draw lines but simply feel with their fingers where the edge of the fabric underneath is when stitching. You can practice on scraps beforehand to see which method works best for you before you start.

 

double needle stitch 1.5cm from the raw edge following the chalk line - regular topstitching 4mm

     

    Positioning the double needle 1.5 cm from the edge:

    double needle position t-shirt bieber couture kit disclothed paris

     

    Here's what you get:

     

    assembly of front and back collars by superimposing fabrics - raw edges with double needle
    5. Assembling the Shoulder

    We will assemble our shoulders in the same way. This time, it is the Back that will overlap the Front.

    • Use your chalk marking again to overlap the Back on the Front, and pin
    💡 To pin correctly, we recommend pinning the two ends of your shoulder line first, then placing a pin in the middle, right between the two. Continue by placing a pin in the middle of two other pins each time until you have enough to hold everything in place.

     

    Overlap shoulder lines - double needle stitch Front and back collar

     

    • Sew with a double needle as before, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end. Start stitching at the outer seam of the collar and finish at the armhole.

     

    shoulder assembly sew double needle raw edges

     

    • Make a support stitch at the collar yokes to "close" the whole thing. Don’t forget to backstitch here, even if it’s just a small stitch

     

     

    Shoulder assembly, holding stitch, bar tack, double needle sewing

     

    6. Attaching the Sleeves to the Bodice

    We will also superimpose our Bust on our Sleeves.

    • Use your chalk marking to help you pin your Front-Back piece to your Sleeves. Be careful not to confuse your Left Sleeve and your Right Sleeve (if you placed your little clips like we did at the beginning, there should be no problem)

     

    bust sleeve assembly sew with double needle

     

    • Sew with a double needle in the same way as before, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end.

     

    armholes stitched with double needle

     

    💡 Good to know: we usually sew our sleeves before attaching them to our bust. It's easier to do the opposite in our case with the finishes chosen for this model, and to attach them flat before assembling the sides.

    7. Sewing the Sleeves and Side Seams

    We're going to stitch our sleeves and sides of our < bieber > t-shirt in one go. We're still following the same process for this step, and once again it's the back that will be positioned on the front.

    ➡️ For those who have opted for the maxi dress version, we explain below how to sew your slits

    • Use your chalk outline to overlap your Back onto your Front and pin all along the sleeves and sides.

     

    assemble the back to the front chalk line double needle sewing

     

     

    • Stitch all the way with a double needle, 1.5 cm from the edge. Take care to leave a 1.5 cm gap unstitched at the beginning and end, and don't forget to make your backstitching, as usual
    • Then make a bar tack (support stitch) as we did previously at the level of the collar

    💡 Good to know: this stitching allows us to reinforce the seam under the armpit and keep our seam allowance flat so that it does not get damaged over time

     

     

    Armhole and armpit support stitching

     

     

    For the maxi dress version, it's almost the same thing except that we stop not 1.5 cm from the bottom of the dress, but at the mark that you marked with chalk at the beginning :

    • First try on your maxi dress and check that the mark indicating the top of the slit is at a height that suits you 
    • Carefully pin all the way down and stitch with a double needle at 1.5 cm, starting at the desired slit height and finishing 1.5 cm before the end of the sleeve. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual

     

    Maxi dress slit with side stitching stopping at the notch

     

     

    • Also make the support stitch under the armpit as for the t-shirt / crop top / mini dress versions (explained just above for those who have skipped the step)
    • Then stitch perpendicular to the side stitching, making your backstitching stitches again at the beginning and end. We start exactly where our previous stitching began and we make a few stitches until we reach the Front (just 1 stitch on the Front is enough) in order to keep the Back firmly pressed against the Front

     

     

    high slit stitch maxi dress perpendicular stitching on the front

     

     

    To finish our slit nicely, we suggest you make a decorative stitch along the slit, on the front layer only

    • Lift your Back and position your double needle at the very top, right under the slit holding stitch that you just made: be careful not to catch your Back in the seam when stitching
    • Don't forget your stopping stitches as usual, at the beginning and at the end, and don't forget to also stop your stitching 1.5 cm before the bottom of the dress

     

     

    decorative topstitching maxi dress slit step 3 double needle stitching

     

      

    💡 Good to know : the side of our Back Slit remains unstitched: the jersey we provide in our kits lends itself well to this because it does not fray at all. If your fabric frays, sew along the raw edge to secure it.

    8. Finishing the Sleeves and Hems

    We're almost there! We're just going to stitch our sleeves and the bottom of our t-shirt/dress to finish our garment nicely, still using a double needle.

    t-shirt bieber finishes disclothed paris sewing patterns sewing patterns

    Finishing hems on sleeves and bottom of the t-shirt - maxi dress

    • Use a double needle to sew all around your sleeves and the bottom of your garment, 1.5 cm from the edge. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
    • For the maxi dress version, you will need to make 2 separate stitches on the bottom of the garment: the first on the front, and a second on the back.

     

    9. Final touch !
    • To finish your < bieber > t-shirt, take the < disclothed > paris textile label provided and place it in the center on the inside of your back
    • Using a needle, make 4 small hand stitches at the four corners of your label. For more aesthetics, we make these stitches directly on the small "flaps" on the side of the label so that they are not visible on the right side of the label (but we are a bit of a control freak , we grant you that)
    disclothed paris label
    Well done !

    We hope you had a great time with us.

    In any case, you can be proud of yourself—you’re now the happy owner of a 100% homemade piece ! (When we said it wasn’t reasonable to pay €2.93 for a t-shirt at Shein, now you know why)

    If you have any questions about this pattern, don’t hesitate to contact us — we’re here to help : hello@disclothed-paris.com.

    Finally, don’t forget to tag us on Instagram with the hashtags #disclothedbyme and #tshirtbieber — we love seeing your creations !

    PS: If your Instagram profile is private, we can’t see your photos even if you tag us 🥹 Feel free to send your photos by direct message in that case !

    We can’t wait to see the results 🖤