Unpack your ready-to-sew kit and thread your machine with the supplied Gütermann thread spools:

• First fill your empty bobbin with one of the two spools
• Install the Bohin double needle (also supplied)
• Thread your machine, carefully passing the threads from both spools through each corner provided for this purpose.

💡 Threading your machine with a double needle is exactly the same as threading a single needle: after installing the 2 Gütermann bobbins on your machine, you thread the 2 threads of your 2 bobbins at the same time, as you usually do with a single thread. It is only at the very end that the two threads separate: one will pass through the left eye of the needle, and the other will pass through the right one.

⚠️ We position ourselves on the straight stitch of our sewing machine, and not on the zigzag stitch as some people may think (in which case your needle would hit directly against your needle plate). In the same way, we also stay on the "central" straight stitch of our machine, and not with the needle offset (to the left or to the right).

• Cut out each piece of the pattern using your paper scissors, after having chosen the right length on your pattern (crop top, t-shirt, mini dress or maxi dress with slits)
• Place the right side of the fabric facing you and pin each of the pattern pieces to your fabric, as detailed in the cutting plan included with your pattern. Be careful to respect the grain direction and to cut the pieces "on the fold" at the fold. Also cut the sleeve once in one direction, and once in the other, in order to obtain a Right Sleeve and a Left Sleeve
• Cut out each piece of fabric using your fabric scissors this time, taking care to follow the pattern lines perfectly. Remember that seam allowances are always included and visible in < disclothed > paris patterns, so there is no need to leave a margin around the pattern outline.

⚠️ Caution: do not notch any pieces! As we work our jersey with raw edges, you must not make any cuts in the fabric, otherwise it would be visible at the end. In any case, you see that there are no notches on your pattern. For the Women's model, there is only one mark that you can use to determine the height of your side slits for the maxi dress: if you have opted for this version, do not notch but simply mark with chalk

💡 Tip: To differentiate the left sleeve from the right sleeve once cut, we recommend placing a small clip on the "Front" side of both sleeves. We place the colored side of the clip on the right side of our fabric, and the transparent side on the wrong side. This will help us find our way around later:

To twist the basic streetwear t-shirt whose cut in itself remains rather classic, we decided to put the package on the finishes: exit the classic "right side against right side", the < bieber > t-shirt is assembled by superimposing fabric and assembled with a double needle. The idea was also for us to bring to life our incredible jerseys which come from a large French luxury house (they are ultra thick and 100% wool, perfect for mid-season) by letting them fully express their singularity with a raw edge finish.

• Get your tailor's chalk or chalk pencil ready
• On the right side of your fabric, mark lines 1.5 cm from the edge on your different pieces, following the instructions in the diagram below. These chalk markings will help you determine which piece goes on top of which other piece, and where exactly:

• For those who have opted for the maxi dress version, mark the sides of your dress on the front at 1.5 cm as well, but stop at the marks indicating the start of the side slits.

⚠️ Please note: our slits are intentionally very long! For those who are more sensitive to the cold, there's nothing stopping you from making them a little shorter by extending your chalk markings a little further down. We recommend trying on your < bieber > dress before sewing the sides to make sure they're the right length for you.

We will now assemble our 2 pieces of Collar to our Front and our Back, by superimposing.

• Place the right side of your Front, Back, Front Collar and Back Collar facing you
• Place your Front Collar on top of your Front, and your Back Collar on top of your Back, making sure to align the bottom edge of your Collar with the line you just made with chalk. Pin all the way down.

⚠️  We don't assemble "right sides together" as you might be used to. Here, you have the right sides facing you (so we make a "right sides together" since we're overlapping our pieces).

➡️ Don't hesitate to use a lot of pins. Use more than usual to keep the two layers of fabric together along our lines.

 

• Stitch 1.5 cm from the edge of your collar. To do this, first draw this line on your collar: the left needle of our double needle will follow this line.

💡 Good to know: the twin needle is perfect for sewing jersey. Indeed, on the reverse side, the threads from the two spools will "zigzag" all the way between the two stitches visible on the right side. These zigzags will allow our jersey to remain stretchy, and the seams will not risk breaking (this is what happens if you decide to sew stretchy fabrics with a straight stitch using a single needle).

  

 

⚠️ We can't tell you this enough: first test on a scrap before starting your project! In sewing, we always test our stitch on a scrap to find the best settings (stitch length and thread tension) according to the nature and thickness of our fabric. We also adjust our settings throughout the sewing process according to the number of layers to be stitched. We know that many people skip this step, out of laziness or haste, but when working with a double needle, we can't afford to miss it. The double needle is not rocket science to master, but the settings are not always easy to find at the beginning, it's not like the straight stitch with a single needle which will generally always give you a straight stitch, more or less pretty. With the double needle, you can have knots forming on the wrong side if your settings are not done correctly, so it's immediately less fun :)

 

• Stitch normally all the way along, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual. Our twin needle is 4 mm wide, so you get two even topstitchings spaced 4 mm apart.

➡️ The left needle of our double needle will therefore come to stitch right on the edge of our bottom thickness (our Front or our Back), hence the importance of being precise when you stitch so as not to leave a hole.

➡️ Some people prefer not to draw lines but simply feel with their fingers where the edge of the fabric underneath is when stitching. You can practice on scraps beforehand to see which method works best for you before you start.

Positioning the double needle 1.5 cm from the edge:

Here's what you get:

We will assemble our shoulders in the same way. This time, it is the Back that will overlap the Front.

• Use your chalk marking again to overlap the Back on the Front, and pin

💡 To pin correctly, we recommend pinning the two ends of your shoulder line first, then placing a pin in the middle, right between the two. Continue by placing a pin in the middle of two other pins each time until you have enough to hold everything in place.

 

• Sew with a double needle as before, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end. Start stitching at the outer seam of the collar and finish at the armhole.

• Make a support stitch at the collar yokes to "close" the whole thing. Make sure to make your stop stitches here as well, even if it's a small stitch.

We will also superimpose our Bust on our Sleeves.

• Use your chalk marking to help you pin your Front-Back assembly to your Sleeves. Be careful not to confuse your Left Sleeve and your Right Sleeve (if you placed your little clips like we did at the beginning there should be no problem)

• Sew with a double needle in the same way as before, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end.

💡 Good to know: we usually sew our sleeves before attaching them to our bust. It's easier to do the opposite in our case with the finishes chosen for this model, and to attach them flat before assembling the sides.

We're going to stitch our sleeves and sides of our < bieber > t-shirt in one go. We're still following the same process for this step, and once again it's the back that will be positioned on the front.

➡️ For those who have opted for the maxi dress version, we explain below how to sew your slits

• Use your chalk outline to overlap your Back onto your Front and pin all along the sleeves and sides.

• Stitch all the way with a double needle, 1.5 cm from the edge. Take care to leave a 1.5 cm space at the beginning and end of your stitching, and don't forget to make your backstitching, as usual.
• Then make a support stitch as we did previously at the level of the collar

💡 Good to know: this stitching allows us to reinforce the seam under the armpit and keep our seam allowance flat so that it does not get damaged over time

For the maxi dress version, it's almost the same thing except that we stop not 1.5 cm from the bottom of the dress, but at the mark that you marked with chalk at the beginning:

• First try on your maxi dress and check that the mark indicating the top of the slit is at a height that suits you.
• Carefully pin all the way down and stitch with a double needle at 1.5 cm, starting at the desired slit height and finishing 1.5 cm before the end of the sleeve. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual.

• Also make the support stitch under the armpit as for the t-shirt / crop top / mini dress versions (explained just above for those who have skipped the step)
• Then stitch perpendicular to the side stitching, making your backstitching stitches again at the beginning and end. We start exactly where our previous stitching began and we make a few stitches until we reach the Front (just 1 stitch on the Front is enough) in order to keep the Back firmly pressed against the Front.

To finish our slit nicely, we suggest you make a decorative stitch all along, on the front only.

• Lift your Back and position your double needle at the very top, right under the slit holding stitch that you just made: be careful not to catch your Back in the seam when stitching
• Don't forget your stopping stitches as usual, at the beginning and at the end, and don't forget to also stop your stitching 1.5 cm before the bottom of the dress

💡  Good to know: the side of our Back Slit remains unstitched: the jersey we provide in our kits lends itself well to this because it does not fray at all. If you have opted for our pattern sold separately and the fabric you have chosen frays, you will need to stitch this area as well to prevent fraying.

We're almost there! We're just going to stitch our sleeves and the bottom of our t-shirt/dress to finish our garment nicely, still using a double needle.

• Use a double needle to sew all around your sleeves and the bottom of your garment, 1.5 cm from the edge. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.
• For the maxi dress version, you will need to make 2 separate stitches on the bottom of the garment: the first on the front, and a second on the back.

 

• To finish your < bieber > t-shirt, take the < disclothed > paris textile label provided and place it in the center on the inside of your back
• Using a needle, make 4 small hand stitches at the four corners of your label. For more aesthetics, we make these stitches directly on the small "flaps" on the side of the label so that they are not visible on the right side of the label (but we are a bit of a control freak , we grant you that)

We hope you had a good time with us.

In any case, you can be proud of yourself, you are now the happy owner of a 100% homemade model (when we told you that it was not decent to pay €2.93 for a t-shirt at Shein, you now understand why).
If you have any questions about this model, please do not hesitate to contact us, we are here to help you: hello@disclothed-paris.com. Finally, don't forget to tag us on Instagram with the hashtags #disclothedbyme and #tshirtbieber , We love discovering your creations!

PS: if you have a closed profile on Instagram, we cannot see your photos even if you tag us 🥹 Don't hesitate to share your photos with us via private message in this case!

We can't wait to see the result 🖤