Let's get sewing together. Unpack your ready-to-sew kit and thread your machine with the included spool of Gütermann thread: first, fill the empty bobbin, then thread your machine, carefully threading the thread into each designated nook and cranny.

• Cut out each piece of the pattern. If you have opted for the raw edge finish, there is no need to cut out the facing pattern (pieces 6, 7 and 8)
• Place the right side of the fabric facing you and pin each piece as detailed in the cutting plan provided with your pattern, respecting the grain of course.
• Cut out each piece of fabric, taking care to follow the pattern lines perfectly: remember that seam allowances are always included in < disclothed > paris patterns, so there is no need to leave a margin around the pattern outline.
• Iron-on the 2 facings as well as the back neckline shaping

⚠️ Always follow the care instructions for your fabric. Generally, we recommend always testing the heat of your iron on a piece of fabric.
➡️ Be careful not to use steam with your iron when ironing. This would prevent the iron-on glue from adhering properly. Gently press the iron on each piece. Do not "slide" the iron over the fabric, simply press for 10 seconds per area to be ironed.

• Mark all the notches using your scissors and chalk pencil for the location of the buttons and buttonholes
• Unpin and iron each of the pieces of fabric obtained

Skip this step if you chose the raw edge version. Only overcast the areas that require it as you assemble.

• Finish each piece using the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine, or a serger for those with more experience. Before you begin, test the stitch length and thread tension. We recommend testing a piece of fabric beforehand to ensure you've made the right adjustments.

💡 Good to know: the zigzag stitch will allow us to "trap the fabric" so that it does not fray. It is used on so-called "warp and weft" fabrics (woven fabrics). In the zigzag stitch mode of the machine, the needle will pierce once into the fabric, once next to the fabric (in a zigzag pattern): this is how the threads will be "trapped".

❓ How to make a zigzag stitch?

• Place the edge of your fabric right in the middle of your presser foot. As with the straight stitch, you must start and end with a backstitch.
• First, put yourself in straight stitch mode on your machine and shift your needle slightly to the left ( in order to properly plant the needle in the fabric and not in the void).
• Insert your needle into the fabric 1cm from the edge. Backstitch 3 times with a straight stitch (this is your starting stop point).
• Raise your needle and now set your machine to zigzag stitch mode. Repeat the stitching in forward motion all the way, using your machine's zigzag stitch mode.
• When you reach the end of the stitching, switch back to the straight stitch mode on your machine with the needle positioned slightly to the left again, and finish with 3 stitches in reverse to secure (final backstitch)

❓ How to overlock a corner? It's very simple: just like you would when sewing a corner with a straight stitch, sew all the way down until you reach the corner. Leave the needle in the fabric, then raise your presser foot. Rotate the fabric and lower the presser foot before continuing your stitching.

Skip this step if you chose the raw edge version

• Pin the 2 facings to the back neckline shape, right sides together
  
  

• Sew with a straight stitch to assemble, 1cm from the edge. Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end, and cut off any excess threads.
• Iron everything, opening the seam allowances with the iron.

• Pin the Right Front and Left Front right sides together to the Back, aligning the shoulder lines edge to edge.

• Still using a straight stitch, sew 1cm from the edge, making sure to secure your stitch at the beginning and end. Cut off any excess threads.
• Raw edge version: since you didn't overlock your pieces at the beginning, now overlock these 2 shoulder lines using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Overlock both layers of fabric at the same time: if necessary, even out the 2 edges with your scissors before overlocking.
• Iron everything, this time placing the seam allowances towards the back.

Skip this step if you opted for the raw edge version

• Pin the facing to your bust all along the neckline, right sides together, making sure all the notches line up.

➡️ The center notch of the Back Neckline Shaper matches the center back notch, and the shoulder seams coincide with the shoulder seams of the Facing. The quality of a piece depends greatly on the precision with which we pin our pieces as we make them, so take your time :)

• Sew with a straight stitch 1cm from the edge, doing as usual, a backstitch at the beginning and at the end. We start at the bottom of the garment, we go all the way around the neckline and we finish our stitching on the other side at the bottom of the garment as well.

⚠️ Pay attention to the seam allowances when sewing by machine. As a reminder, we laid them down towards the back for the body, and opened them up at the facing.

💡 Good to know: Respecting the direction of the seam allowances allows you to avoid having unsightly excess material. Generally speaking, in sewing, the seam allowances are placed towards the back of the garment and/or towards the floor. We open the seam allowances with an iron when we want to distribute the material evenly, as we did on our facing for example.

⚠️ As before, pay close attention to the angles at the collar when stitching: don't hesitate to slow down! Similarly, slow down when rounding the collar to achieve a clean result, especially if you are a beginner.

• Cut off the excess threads and trim the corners of the collar.

💡  Good to know: trimming your corners is essential. Trimming a corner simply means "removing material" from the corner. Since we're assembling right sides together, trimming your corner will help us turn our work properly. Without it, the excess material trapped inside would prevent us from obtaining a clean and flat corner once turned.

❓ How to trim a corner? Nothing could be simpler! We remove some material a first time by cutting "diagonally" in our fabric, as close as possible to our stitching - 1 or 2 mm. Then we cut a little more material on the sides, again at an angle. Be careful not to cut too close to the stitching either, you risk making a hole.

• Turn your work right side out, making sure the corners of the collar stand out and flattening the seams along the two fronts and the facing. Iron well.

💡 This step is very important and takes time. To give you an idea, we timed ourselves and spent 15 minutes on this ironing step alone. In sewing, ironing is essential to ensure the garment lasts over time.

• Make 2 hand stitches on each side of the facing to keep it securely in place inside the garment: take your sewing needle and stitch right into the shoulder seam, both on the bust and on the facing. Pass your needle back to the other side a few times then tie off. Trim any excess threads.

• Pin the sides of the two Fronts to the Back, right sides together, making sure the notches under the armpits line up:

• Straight stitch the 2 sides of the blouse, pinned together, always 1cm from the edge. As usual, don't forget to stop at the beginning and end, and cut off any excess threads.
• Raw edge version: now overlock these 2 sides using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. As before, overlock both layers of fabric at the same time, and even out the edges. beforehand with a pair of scissors if necessary.
• Iron everything, folding the seam allowances on both sides towards the back.

• Fold the sleeves in half lengthwise, right sides together, and pin all along, edge to edge.

• Sew with a straight stitch 1cm from the edge: don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end. Cut off any excess threads.
• Raw edge version: Overcast the entire length using a zigzag stitch or a serger. Again, overcast both layers of fabric at the same time after leveling the edges if necessary.
• Turn the sleeves right side out and iron, flattening the seams well all along.

We will now mount our sleeves to our bust, taking care to respect the direction: we have a right sleeve, and a left sleeve! To avoid getting confused, here is how you can proceed:

• Place your blouse < hanbok > on its wrong side and take your 2 sleeves which are on their right side
• Locate the small notches you made at the beginning: the notch on the sleeve should coincide with the shoulder seam, and the double notch on the sleeve should coincide with the double notch on the front.

➡️ When you start sewing, it's not always easy to project yourself in 3D. Take the time to carefully observe which is the Right Front, the Left Front, the Right Sleeve and the Left Sleeve. Use the notches to help you, and observe the direction of the fabric: which pieces are on the right side? Which are on the wrong side? Our diagrams are there to help you with this in support of the tutorial video, hoping that they will help you see things more clearly 💖

⚠️ Pay attention to your seam allowances again when pinning: they are all lying towards the back: the sleeve seam allowances, the side seam allowances and the shoulder seam allowances 

💡 Tip: if you are a beginner, do not hesitate to use a lot of pins when assembling your sleeves, this will help you to have nice connections 

• Sew with a straight stitch 1cm from the edge: start at the side stitch (under the armpit) and go all the way around the armhole. Don't forget to backstitch, at the beginning and end as usual, and cut off any excess threads.

💡 Good to know: Starting the backstitch here helps reinforce the underarm stitch. This is often where you end up with a hole due to wear.

💡 Sewing machine tip: Don't hesitate to remove the accessory compartment from your sewing machine to be more comfortable when sewing your sleeves. This gives you more space to stitch neatly along the entire armhole, avoiding pulling on the fabric.

• Raw edge version: now overlock the 2 armholes using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker (always the 2 thicknesses of fabric at the same time, after leveling if necessary)
• Iron everything, folding the seam allowances of the armholes towards the bust.

➡️ See below for the raw edge version

The hanbok blouse is almost finished! Now we're tackling the hems to finish the garment off neatly.

• Turn the blouse inside out < hanbok > on its reverse side
• Facing finish: Make a 1 cm fold towards the inside at the bottom of the sleeves and iron to mark the fold

⚠️ The sleeves of the < hanbok > blouse are dramatically long: they cover part of your hands and are also very flared. If you wish, you can very well shorten your sleeves a little to the desired length. Also, we advise you to always do a fitting before marking the folds of your hems, to make sure that the 2 sleeves are symmetrical (it may be that you did not sew / cut perfectly straight earlier and therefore there is a difference in length between the 2 sleeves).

• Fold back 1 cm inwards, iron and pin all the way, always taking care to respect the direction of the seam allowances (lying towards the back). By folding the bottom of our sleeves twice, we obtain what is called in sewing, a double hem.
• Sew the two double hems obtained 0.7 cm from the edge, still using a straight stitch, starting at the sleeve seam and going all the way around. Don't forget to start and finish with a backstitch.
• Iron everything to flatten the seams well.

➡️ For the raw edge version, you obviously don't need to hem it!

• Raw edge finishing: simply sew the bottom of your sleeves 1 cm from the edge, using a straight stitch, remembering to make a backstitch at the beginning and end. This will prevent the fabric from fraying beyond our stitching.

➡️ See below for the raw edge version

• Finishing the facing: stand in front of your garment and open the fronts and the facings as shown in the diagram below (to make it easier to understand, we have shown our garment without the shoulder seam lines, but they are of course there for you!)
• Make a 1 cm pleat at the bottom of the blouse and iron to mark the fold

• Repeat this operation a second time to obtain a double hem, like what we just did on the sleeves: fold again by 1 cm, iron and pin all the way, always taking care to respect the direction of the seam allowances on the sides (lying towards the back)
• Then fold down the facings, keeping the hems that we have just marked with the iron, and re-pin

• Sew with a straight stitch 0.7 cm from the edge, remembering to start and end with a backstitch. Iron everything to flatten the seams.

➡️ For the raw edge version, you obviously don't need to hem it!

• Raw edge finishing: as for the sleeves, simply straight stitch all the way, 1 cm from the edge. Start on one of the 2 side stitches (right or left) and go all the way around the garment, passing through the collar. Don't forget to make a backstitch at the beginning and end, as usual.

💡  Good to know: By doing this, your fabric may fray at its edges over time. The stitching we just made will "block" the fraying (your fabric will not fray beyond that). You can start fraying the edges yourself with your hands to achieve the result you like.

We now move on to making our buttonholes:

• Change the presser foot and install the special buttonhole presser foot (supplied with your sewing machine)
• Do some tests beforehand on scraps of your fabric: take 2 layers of fabric to put yourself in real conditions
• Position yourself on the special buttonhole stitch of your machine and set the length of your stitch between 0 and 1. Adjust according to your tests.

➡️ Our heart buttons are 1 cm high. You will therefore need to make slightly larger buttonholes so that the button can pass through. Identify the notch on your presser foot that works best: for us, we position ourselves at the ^3rd notch (we advise you to refer to our tutorial video if this is the first time you are making a buttonhole - this will ensure you are sure of the correct movement).

💡 Good to know: we're showing you how to make a buttonhole on a basic home sewing machine, but be aware that on many higher-end sewing machines today, the buttonhole function is automated, which makes it even easier to make them (basically you press a button and the machine does the work by itself). We won't go into detail on these higher-end machines because we assume that if you've invested in this more sophisticated machine, you probably have a more advanced sewing level :)

• When your tests are conclusive (and only after!), return to your work

• Place your needle where you marked the location of the ^1st buttonhole, in the top left corner. Go to buttonhole stitch mode 1 on your machine and position your presser foot correctly so that the opening of the presser foot is perfectly adapted to the size you want to give to your buttonhole
• Gently press the pedal and guide the fabric without pulling or forcing it to the bottom left corner of your buttonhole. The work is done automatically:

• Once you reach the bottom, with the needle fully raised, move on to buttonhole stitch 2 and work back and forth a few times. You will end up in the bottom right corner of the buttonhole:

• Then move on to buttonhole stitch 3. Be careful to stop well in time - in the top right corner:

• Finally, finish with buttonhole stitch 4 (which is actually the same as 2) by going back and forth a few times:

• Finally, raise the needle and cut the excess threads.
• Place 2 pins at the beginning and end of the buttonhole
• Using a seam ripper, carefully open the buttonhole to form the hole that will allow the button to pass through (along the black line on our diagram)

💡 Good to know: these 2 pins serve as guides so as not to go too far with the seam ripper and accidentally tear the buttonhole.

• Remove your pins, the boutonniere is done!
• Repeat these steps for the remaining 2 buttonholes and iron everything.

We will finally come to sew our heart buttons to our <hanbok> blouse:

• Place the two fronts on top of each other to check the placement of the buttons you marked with chalk at the beginning. If necessary, review the placement of the buttons so that they align with the buttonholes you just made.

➡️ Your markings may no longer be very aligned if you sewed with more or less precision. If this is the case, don't hesitate to try them on and review their placement! The main thing is that the buttons are properly aligned with the buttonholes at the end.

• To sew buttons by hand, it is best to place your needle on the right side of the garment so that the small knot is not visible on the wrong side (it will be hidden by the button on the right side). Similarly, for the final knot, prefer the right side of the blouse.
• Cut off the excess threads and repeat this step for the remaining 2 buttons.

➡️ You can sew on your buttons using your sewing machine. We won't go into detail about the process here, as it depends greatly on your sewing machine and the accessories it comes with (a special button-applying foot, retractable feed dogs or a plate to slide onto these dogs, etc.). We recommend referring to your sewing machine's instructions for more information.

• To finish your < hanbok > blouse, use the < disclothed > paris textile label provided
• Place it right in the center, on the Facing: we only sew this thickness (without crossing the back) so that the seams are not visible on the outside of the blouse

➡️ For the raw edge version, there is only one thickness of fabric so obviously, you sew the label directly onto the back of the blouse < hanbok >

• Using a needle, make 4 small hand stitches at the four corners of your label. For more aesthetics, we make these stitches directly on the small flaps of the label so that they are not visible on the right side of the label (but we are a bit of a control freak , we grant you that)
• Final ironing of the blouse < hanbok >

We hope you had a good time with us.
In any case, you can be proud of yourself, you are now the happy owner of a 100% home-made model!

If you have any questions about this model, please do not hesitate to contact us, we are here to help you: hello@disclothed-paris.com .
Finally, don't forget to tag us on Instagram with the hashtags #disclothedbyme and #chemisierhanbok , we love seeing your creations!

PS: If you have a closed Instagram profile, we can't see your photos even if you tag us. Feel free to share your photos with us via private message in this case!

We can't wait to see the result 🖤